Place the chickpeas in a medium saucepan and add the baking soda. Cover the chickpeas by several inches of water, then bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Continue boiling, reducing heat if necessary to prevent overflow, for about 20 minutes, or until the chickpeas look bloated, their skins are falling off, and they’re quite soft. Drain the chickpeas in a strainer and run cool water over them for about 30 seconds. Set aside

Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the lemon juice, garlic and salt. Process until the garlic is very finely chopped, then let the mixture rest for about 10 minutes so the garlic flavor mellows out.

Add the tahini to the food processor and blend until the mixture is thick and creamy, stopping to scrape down any tahini stuck to the sides and bottom of the processor.

While running the food processor, drizzle in 2 tablespoons ice water. Scrape down the food processor, and blend until the mixture is smooth, pale and creamy.

Add the cumin and the drained chickpeas to the food processor. While blending, drizzle in the olive oil. Blend until the mixture is super smooth about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the processor. If not creamy enough, add more ice water and blend.

Taste, and adjust as necessary—you may want to add more salt or lemon.

Scrape the hummus into a serving bowl or platter, and garnish with paprika. Serve with tortilla chips or pita chips. Leftover hummus keeps well in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 1 week.